Chicago is known for its Italian beef. But do you know the jibarito?
In Chicago, the word “jibarito” means one thing: a plate of Puerto Rican delight.
The sandwich — a thin strip of marinated steak layered between two crispy fried plantain “buns” and stacked with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and American cheese — was created here in Chicago.
Borinquen, a Puerto Rican restaurant in North Center neighborhood, claims to have invented it, and they have a trademark to show for it.
Gabriela Figueroa, 41, who has co-owned the restaurant with her father for the last six years, said her uncle Juan Luis Figueroa saw a plantain sandwich from restaurant El Plátano Loco advertised in a Puerto Rican newspaper decades ago and decided to try to make it at home for his father.
But, she said, he “Americanized it.”
Soon, he began to sell this creation at his father’s restaurant, calling it “the jibarito.”
Chicago jibaritos
Borinquen co-owner Gabriela Figueroa's favorite spot in the restaurant is a small table in the back elevated seating area, tucked away in a corner overlooking the rest of the space: "I like sitting up here because when I do work or [bring] my laptop, I can see everything." LUISANA ORTIZ/THE LATINO REPORTER
Today, the last standing Borinquen restaurant is covered in depictions of the sandwich: a loteria card, cartoons and photographs cover the walls. As the salsa music played over the sound system, jibaritos appeared, wrapped in silver foil and ready to eat.
Luisana Ortiz is an incoming senior at Syracuse University pursuing a dual degree in journalism and data analytics. She aspires to one day write profiles and cover underrepresented communties for The New Yorker. Reach her at luisanasofiawork [at] outlook [dot] com.
